Hey Guys, Yep, thats the Bike that was on Ebay. It was set up as a single speed by using spacers on the cassette and as you can see a pretty big front ring! I changed the cranks to white industry ENO, and put on a set of second hand Chris King Single speed hubs with 517's.
The old synchros post would not stay in place, been sliding for to many years, and I like more setback, so I put on a thomson 27.2 and used a cane creek shim to make the difference. The shim I think actually helps grip the post better than the Ti walls of the seat tube. The post has not slipped a micro-meter since installed.
The Bars and stem were a little to relaxed for me so I put a bit longer stem and flat bar with no spacer. She's diggin' a bit in the front so I will probably add the spacer back or go to a 1" riser bar.
Using Stans no-tubes. The Bike really flies. Its a joy to ride. I bought this bike because my 93' Yo suffered from a rusted seat tube. I miss my old Yo, but boy the Ti is really sweet. Bit more forgiving ride and still a great climber. Overall I am really happy with it.
I will eventually be converting back to gears, but in the meantime am really having fun on the Single Speed!
Yes, my seattube rusted through down by the BB. I bought my Yo in 93' and just don't remember being told to give the seat tube an annual treatment. I just rode it. Then this year during an overhaul I noticed the paint bubbled down by the BB. Poked around and went right through. UGH! heartbraking. Been my only MB for over 10yrs.
I needed a bike so I went to ebay looking for another early Yo and found the Fat Ti set up for Single Speed. Figured I'd give it a shot, but am finding that I miss the gears. Theres a winter race series comming up so I will convert it back to gears before that starts. In the mean time the SS is kind of an eye opener. Amazing how quick and snappy they are. I am sure the rigid fork has something to do with it as well. I am really liking the fork and so far have no desire to put suspension on.
As theres no warranty anyway. getting the dremel out & drilling a tiny hole from the BB shell up through into the seatube allows the water to drain from the seattube & into the BB shell.
coating the inside of the frame with waxoyl or similiar will help prevent rust.
This isnt purely a FAT related problem I should say. My 1990 yeti FRO is fully sealed & rusted through seat & down tubes are pretty common on these frames as well.
I know a few people who've successfully had the seattube replaced & its not as big/priccy a job as you'd imagine!
Argos cycles in bristol UK charge around
My IF Planet X cyclocross frame rusted through the seat tube above the BB shell. Lloyd at IF first told me they could fix it for $400 but later said they would rather replace the whole thing for a bit more, so that is what I did. I still have the original frame and would like to fix it. If anybody knows of a framebuilder in the USA that will do such a repair for less than $400 please contact me. Thanks.